How to play Table Tennis

Table Tennis - How to play

Here are most of the basic preparations and strokes necessary to get you started. A few of the more advanced techniques are also discussed. One may wish to move from top to bottom-from most basic to more advanced, but don't hesitate to look ahead to get a taste of what's to come.

There is no written substitute for live instruction, so if you are lucky enough to have access to a club or a skilled acquaintance, then be sure to spend as much time training with them as possible. Even if such opportunities are hard to come by, we strongly suggest that you see a skilled instructor or practice partner as soon as you can. A few meetings are better than nothing at all. This is critical when you are just beginning to develop your game, since you will be getting off on the best table-tennis foot.

Above all, practice these techniques constantly! Just like any other sport, Table Tennis demands the utmost in effort from the prospective player. Various practice techniques are discussed, whether with a partner or alone. Obtaining a regular practice partner early in the game is a very good way to get better steadily.

Basic techniques

Getting Started

In order to start playing the real sport of table tennis, one requires the proper equipment and techniques. Although experimentation forms a large portion of one's advancement later on, in the beginning most everyone needs to learn the basics. Remember, even a wanderer had to find out how to walk one time or another.

Equipment

If you are just starting out, take stock of your equipment(if any):

• Does the equipment meet legal requirements(in table tennis)?
• Is the equipment in a good enough condition as to not hamper performance(very important when starting out)?

The paddle can be of any size and weight, from a lollipop to a pizza ladle. It must have one side of red and one side of black.

The table must be 9 feet long by 5 feet wide, and the surface must be 30 inches from the floor. A white line divides the table lengthwise, and white lines form the border of the top surface. The net used must be 6 inches high, spanning the entire table at the middle. Although not required for most uses(as some nets are 5 feet long), regulations stipulate for a net to be legal, it must stretch out 6 inches beyond the table on both sides.

The ball can either be orange or white, depending on light conditions and/or personal preferences. Try to buy the best quality balls possible, even for practice. This will pay off in the long run. Three-star balls denote top quality...but even there, quality differs between manufacturers. Cost is a good barometer of quality here, about 1$US each for a respectable ball. They usually get cheaper in bulk. Good balls last longer and play more consistently for better practice results.

Try to wear nonreflective clothing, choosing relatively dark solid colors whenever possible. Wear shoes that allow quick movements of the feet and easy ankle control. Avoid running shoes or any shoes designed mainly for forward movements.

If you are buying your first equipment, follow these tips:

• Try to buy from an established table tennis dealer if possible, although this means you will likely be doing the buying over mail. The advantages include knowledgeable service(not always-check) and a wider selection of quality equipment. If you must buy from your local sporting goods store(many retailers carry table tennis equipment), then the section to look would be most likely "games(an unfortunate case in the US)" or "racquet sports(more often under games)." Although you get your equipment quicker, the selection is severely limited and often of "game quality." Make sure the above guidelines for legal equipment is followed when purchasing.
• When buying paddles, look for wooden rackets with inverted rubber-that is, rubber with a smooth flat surface, as opposed to the pimples out rubber with little "pips" jutting out of the surface. The modern game leans toward inverted surfaces.
• Assuming you will be playing with the shakehands grip, racket selection shouldn't be a problem, as 99.999999% of the retailers in US(Fred Meyer, Sportmart etc..) carry only shakehands rackets. Penholders will find their respective rackets usually only in specialized vendors.
• When selecting a table, definitely go for quality. While there is no need to spend over $500 on one, make sure the table you are buying is legal and durable. Do not store the table outdoors. Keep the table clean and away from heavy traffic(i.e. store when not in use).
• Try to only buy three star balls, both for practice and games. The color of balls is left entirely to the reader's preferences. Orange is the predominant color today, and many people find it easier to track the color in most lighting conditions, especially fluorescent.

Pre-Play Preparation

Many people have the misconception that table tennis is just a "game", and therefore is to be regarded as such, even to the point of not warming up properly before play! If the "game" in question had been light frisbee, then warming up would not be as much of a concern simply due to the fact that throwing and retrieving frisbees don't tax the body that much(usually).

Warming up helps get your body ready for the rapid coordinated moves that make table tennis such an intensive sport. There are no special or unique exercises; it's just like warming up before playing any other sport. A light jog, jumpropes, and various stretches help loosen your muscles and get you "in gear" for optimum performance. When selecting the types of stretches(proper techniques can be learned from books or knowledgeable people-don't overdo it!), try to cover all parts of the body, from your neck to the ankles. When you are done playing, perform cool-down exercises-essentially the same as warm-ups to gradually improve overall flexibility and fitness.

Also remember to before picking up the paddle:

• Pack water and towels if necessary
• Take extra balls along in case one breaks or gets lost(very easily done in garages!)
• Keep 8 feet of space all around the table clear of traffic or debris
• Make sure the lighting conditions meet practical standards(see if you can reasonably track the ball in play)-bad lighting can ruin a practice
• And finally-be anxious! Get excited about what you will accomplish, set goals and work towards them, do anything to make practicing and playing fun. After all, if you aren't interested in table tennis, you couldn't have read this far.

Guide to Grips

The way one chooses to hold his/her table tennis paddle will make a big difference in his/her play. There are currently 3 "standard" grips existing in table tennis today. Because of lack of experience/expertise, this website will cover techniques in shakehands only, but most strokes will transfer over to the other grips with only a few modifications.

The shakehands grip is the prevalent grip of table tennis today(as of 1998), used by the majority of recreational and professional players. The paddle is gripped with all fingers, with the thumb resting by itself on the opposite side as the index finger. The grip is analogous to shaking a hand at an approximately 45-degree angle. The pinky, ring, and middle finger wrap around one side of the handle, and the index finger rests on the bottom edge of the rubber. The thumb rests on the top of the handle on the other side, thumbnail perpendicular to the wood. It should point in the same direction as the index finger. When held out straight in front of you, the paddle's edge should form a line with the outstretched arm. The grip should feel natural, with no particularly uncomfortable areas. Too tight a grip can sacrifice control and power. Be sure to grab the handle loosely enough so that another person would have no trouble plucking it from your hand. But at the same time, maintain enough tightness so the paddle won't fly out of your hand during an intense loop shot.

Some of the advantages of using the shakehands grip are:

• Equally strong forehand and backhand advantage(provided you pay equal attention to both)
• Wide selection of paddles to choose from

Once a dominant grip in its heyday, the penhold grip still has its supporters, world class players included. The racket is gripped as one would grip a pen, with the thumb and index finger, with the rest of the fingers being tucked away on the other side. There are several variations to this grip, and two types of paddles to reflect this. The "chinese" paddles are basically shakehands paddles with a shortened handle. The remaining fingers rest against the other side. "Japanese" paddles have a raised handle, which is called a "hook." The index finger curls around the "hook" for extra leverage. Which one you use depends on personal preferences. Penhold paddles typically only have one side covered with a rubber sheet. This makes them lighter than most shakehands paddles. The other side must still comply with the paddles rule, so it is usually painted red or black, or covered with a sheet of colored paper.

Some of the advantages of using the penhold grip are:

• A dominant forehand game(while backhands are possible with this grip, the vast majority of penhold players rely on their forehand game)-quick feet are required to sustain this!
• Since it is not as widely used, an element of surprise against opponents unfamiliar with the grip

The Ready Position/The Importance of Footwork

The typical playing area for table tennis is about 20 feet by 40 feet(the legal dimensions). The actual table width only occupies 5 feet of the 20. This means in tough matches, the ball will come in at a variety of angles, some very sharp. Therefore, despite the seemingly diminutive area the table tennis table covers compared to most sports playing areas/fields, the ability to move the body around becomes extremely important. But table tennis footwork also requires precision. The smaller steps that get you in perfect position for that forehand loop are just as important as the veritable leaps one may make while traversing the table edge in pursuit of a corner smash. Before attempting anything at the table, however, the correct stance must be performed.

A ready stance must be kept at all available times during play to ensure maximum control, power, and consistency. The typical table tennis stance is a slight crouch forward, feet shoulder-width apart. Make sure you bend your knees and ankles. Most of the weight should be on the balls of the feet, because this makes quick sudden movements and pivots necessary for good shots much easier. The upper arm should be close, but not flush, to your body. The forearm and racket should point forward, which requires that the elbow be bent. A relaxed posture is important, adjust the stance until most of the tension is gone. Just make sure you aren't so relaxed that slouching occurs; the idea is to maintain the optimum position for well-coordinated and explosive movements.

For right-handers, the place to stand is on the backhand half of the table. The right foot should be slightly to the left of the center line. Try to have the left foot slightly forward. Stand at an enough distance away from the table so that the tip of your paddle barely touches the edge of the table. This should mean standing fairly close to the table; the arm should be close to the body, not outstretched. Also, the body should face the table at a slight angle, with the right foot and shoulder slightly farther away from the endline than the left. This allows good positioning for both forehands and backhands.

When the ready position is mastered, the necessary footwork can follow. Remember, footwork is done primarily to position the player for an optimum shot, one that doesn't have to be reached for. Therefore any unnecessary movement is a waste of time and energy, besides allowing your opponent to catch you unawares with a shot opposite your direction of movement. Most players use a side to side shuffle when moving across the table. Doing so allows one to face the table at all times, important when the ball is coming in very quickly. The same principles are used whether moving left or right. The foot in the direction of movement takes a short step in that direction, and at the same time the weight of the body shifts to that foot. At the end of the shuffle, the other foot slides to take its place alongside the foot that moved first.

The timing of the footwork is as important as the actual execution. If done too early, the opponent will notice and likely fire a shot where you weren't planning on going. Catch it too late and you will find yourself reaching for the ball, or worse. Pay close attention to the opponent when he/she is getting ready to hit; prepare yourself and don't start moving until he/she has started his/her stroke. Follow the ball with your eyes and use the feet to move to the best shotmaking area relative to where the ball lands. Don't start the stroke until you have finished moving. After hitting the ball, get back into the ready stance immediately, in anticipation for a return that could go anywhere. When the action gets fast, all of these movements and decisions must be made in split seconds. Training will help you get there.

Basic Strokes

For all of the strokes described below, the arm should be very relaxed. Power should be concentrated on the waist, forearm, and wrist (acting together) like a whip, with the upper arm moving very little. Almost every shot requires a little movement to get into correct positioning-in other words, you can't stand still and play table tennis! And always remember to return to the ready position following each shot.

The Drive

Drives, a light topspin stroke that produces a low ball trajectory, are the primary offensive strokes in table tennis. One employs drives to force errors and to set up winners. The mastery of both the forehand and backhand drives is important because it will give your opponent less options when using attacking strokes of his/her own. In executing this and all other offensive strokes, the usage of the entire body in unison is important for consistency and power. Keep in the ready position until you are ready to execute the shot and remain relaxed but responsive(this is very important).

FOREHAND DRIVE: Keep the upper arm close, but not flush, to the torso. The forearm(form a rough 90 degree bend with the upper arm) should be drawn back to the 3 o'clock position, and let the waist turn naturally along with the arm(this is where relaxing is important). Shift your weight toward the right foot at the same time. While shifting your weight back to your left foot, swing forward with a slight upward motion, with the waist providing additional force in the swing. Use the elbow as a pivot point; it should not move so much up and down, but also should be allowed to move slightly forward in the follow-through. Contact with the ball should be made slightly to the side of the body after the top of the bounce. Make sure the paddle is somewhat closed(or facing downwards at an angle), and remains that way throughout the stroke. Follow-through should finish when racket is parallel with the left shoulder. Immediately return to the ready position. The left foot should be slightly in front of the right for support.

BACKHAND DRIVE: From the ready position, the waist turns left with the racket pointing towards the 9 o'clock position. When following through, contact with the ball is made in front of the body, slightly after the top of the bounce. Let the elbow again act as the pivot point, and snap the forearm forward in a slightly upward direction. Make sure the paddle is closed. Follow-through should finish naturally(about 12~1 o'clock) after contact with ball. The left foot should be slightly ahead of the right.

Note : Be sure to contact the top half of the ball when hitting topspin drives.

The Push

Pushes are the basic backspin shots, used to change the pace of an exchange or to return certain very low and close shots such as backspin serves. A generally defensive shot, it allows placement anywhere on the table that is difficult to attack when executed properly. All pushes should be done with the right foot stepping in. The ball is contacted right after the bounce with an open racket. How open the racket is depends on the intensity of backspin on the ball. Heavier backspin requires a more open racket to return over the net. Try to keep the ball low, varying the amount of backspin and racket angle.

FOREHAND PUSH: Bring the racket slightly up and back, while keeping the elbow at your waist. Bend the wrist back. Swing forward with a downward motion, and when the racket reaches the ball snap the wrist forward for extra racket speed. With an open racket, graze the bottom half of the ball. An ideal contact point is right after the ball bounces. Never push a ball at the top of the bounce, because the resulting return will pop the ball high enough for the opponent to execute a smash. Try to hit the ball in front and slightly to the right of your body. Follow through forward and slightly down, and return to the ready position.

BACKHAND PUSH: Bring the racket slightly up and back, close into your stomach while cocking the wrist back. This time try to contact the ball directly in front of your body, and remember to keep the elbow still while the forearm and wrist move forward and down. Graze the bottom of the ball and follow through.

Note : Keep the push stroke gentle, as being too hasty often makes the ball go long, or too high. Keep in mind that unlike the drive, the push is more of a finesse and 'touch' shot. As you advance the stokes can start becoming more aggressive, with a variety of spins.

The Block

Blocking allows a player to use the opponent's force against him/her, and is done immediately after the bounce so that maximum control and speed are retained. Adjusting the racket angle depends on the severity of topspin on the ball; the more topspin there is, the more you should close the racket. Being essentially a cut-down drive, there is very little backswing and follow-through. Think of blocking as a backup shot that can be used when there isn't enough time for a full drive or loop. Depending on how much control you have over the block, it can be used offensively as well. Use your wrist to vary the direction of these block-returns, and make sure footwork takes you to the most choice areas to hit in.

The Smash

The smash, or kill, is the put-away stroke of table tennis. Any ball that is high enough and close enough to the opponent's side can be smashed, although some opportunities are better than others. Smashing combines waist, forearm, and wrist movement to the fullest extent. A good smash is very hard to return, but it can be done. Do not dawdle after you have executed a smash. The ball is contacted at the top of the bounce at its highest point.

FOREHAND SMASH: Similar to the drive, the key differences include:

• A longer backswing
• Greater weight transfer during swing
• Faster, more intense snapping of the forearm when contacting ball
• Depending on ball height and position, the racket is closed more than usual to keep the ball in the court
• Longer follow-through, but don't forget to anticipate a possible return!

BACKHAND SMASH: Again, use the guidelines above and apply them to the backhand drive. Be sure to snap the wrist more as you contact the ball and finish in a long follow-through.

Note on smashes: Don't just indiscriminately smash the ball when you find the opening; instead, try to direct the ball to a location where it is least likely to be hit back, accidentally or intentionally.

Basic Service Techniques

The following are the basic rules of service:

1. The ball must be held above the table level in order for the opponent and umpire to see it.
2. The ball must be held in the palm of the hand with fingers stretched, and tossed vertically at least six inches.
3. The ball must be struck only on the way down.
4. The ball must be struck behind the end line.

Serves are entirely up to the player; there are no specific serves that must be used by everybody. But to begin with, there are some basic serves that should be experimented with. Imparting spin on these serves should be concentrated mostly on the wrist.

Backspin- just like pushing or chopping, a backspin serve is executed with an open racket slicing the bottom of the ball.

Topspin- like driving, topspin serves can be done hitting with a flat racket, or like looping, where the player grazes the top of the ball with a closed racket for more spin.

Sidespin- simply hit the back of the ball in a left-to-right or right-to-left motion, as desired. To make the stroke easier, try holding the racket in front of you and brushing the bottom of the ball in a pendulum motion.

Notes on serves: Be sure to assume the ready position as soon as you finish your service motion. Keep the ball as low as possible to prevent an early attack by the opponent. Experiment with all the spins; mix up your serves during games. The spins are not the only thing that should be varied. Practice placing the ball in different depths and in different directions. Unlike doubles, a singles serve can go anywhere on the opponent's court. The advantage to service is the uncertainty faced by the returner. Be as inconspicuous as possible.

Advanced Strokes

The advanced strokes described within should be gradually incorporated into a beginner's training regimen. After you have solid control of the fundamentals, the experimentation of these difficult strokes can begin. Again, no amount of written instruction can show you exactly how to do these shots correctly. Even if it is your playing partner with just as much experience as yourself, have him/her critique the motions, and do the same for him/her. And watch the professionals do it, be it on television, exhibitions, or even competitions, should you be lucky enough to be able to attend(tip:watch their bodies move, not the ball). Finally, even if you don't readily have access to a table and training partner, many serious players use shadow-practicing and it should be a part of your training too. Good luck!

The Loop

The loop drive is the primary attacking stroke of serious players today. A loop is basically a spinny counterpart of a drive, emphasizing topspin over forward motion. Likewise, a stronger upward motion is required in the swing, grazing the ball instead of hitting it. Despite the nature of the loop, they can go just as fast as the drive-approaching 100mph for an over-the-table loop by a talented player. If there were any doubts about the endurance requirements of table tennis, try hitting decent loops against extreme backspin time and time again. Players not used to this stroke may find it the most tiring for the first time.

Depending on the characteristic of the incoming ball, the loop must be modified to hit the ball correctly. If a ball is coming in fast and high with heavy topspin, the paddle should be more closed and the swing should go forward more. However, if a chop came floating your way, then the correct thing to do would be to open the paddle somewhat, and perform a strong upwards swing-think of it as 'pulling the ball back up with the paddle'. This is especially what makes the loop such a tough stroke. As the ball touches the paddle for only a short time, as well as meeting on a more perpendicular path(as opposed to the highly parallel paths during a drive), good timing is critical to avoid completely missing the ball altogether. This means keeping a sharp eye on the ball throughout the stroke is important, as it is for all other strokes.

FOREHAND LOOP: From the ready position, bring the right foot slightly back(while transferring your weight to it). At the same time, rotate your body backward, and the paddle should be brought back and slightly down, depending on which spin you are hitting against. Bend your knees slightly. Start the stroke by rotating the waist and hips forward, and start straightening out the knees to add more force. The forearms should gradually accelerate from the backswing to contact, snapping for maximum speed when you meet the ball. Hit topspin balls at the top of the bounce or while it is dropping. Hit backspin balls while it is dropping. Follow-through forward more for topspins and upward more for backspins. The weight should be completely transferred back to the left foot at this point.

BACKHAND LOOP: This time, the backswing goes in front of your legs, and to do so you should drop your right shoulder somewhat. Remember to keep the eye on the ball no matter what the other parts of your body are doing. Rotate your waist to the left and transfer the weight to the left foot. Against topspin, unwind your waist and hit the ball at the top of the bounce(or during the drop) with a forward motion, but remember to just graze the ball as opposed to driving it. Snap your wrist at contact. Against backspin, remember to apply more of an upward motion, but also add a bit of forward force or you could hit your nose in the follow-through!(nothing like defaulting due to a self-inflicted nosebleed eh?:)

Notes on the loop: Since a lot of paddle speed is required in this stroke, the extra backswing, bending of the knees, and the usual waist rotation and weight transfer are all needed, not to mention the wrist snap at contact. A forward graze will produce higher speeds, but they can only be used on relatively high balls at the top of their bounce. Use something between the all-out topspin loop and extreme backspin pull-up for most rallies. Killer topspins are prone to the net or going off the endline, and excessive usage of the high arcing loop can lead to a deadly smash by your alert opponent. A relaxed posture is doubly important for loops, both your speed and consistency will improve if you can go through the swing 'naturally'. Keep your rubber in good condition; how much spin and control you put on your loop depends upon the tackiness of the rubber. Bad rubber=weak loops(if at all).

The Chop

The chop is the mainstay of advanced defensive players. Essentially an extreme backspin shot, the ball tends to travel in a very flat trajectory and bounce low. Chops are always taken when the ball is dropping, often below the table-up to 15 feet away! Anything higher and the stroke becomes a push. Defensive players who chop do so to force the other player into an error, and to do so one may vary the amount of backspin or change the direction of the shots. Matches against two equally skilled choppers used to be an affair of many hours until the introduction of the expedite rule.

FOREHAND CHOP: Back up, depending upon the speed of the incoming ball. At the same time put your weight on the back foot. Bring the arm back and paddle up, while rotating your waist. When the ball has dropped to about the table level(it has to go off the end in order to execute a successful chop! Push short balls), rotate your waist, bring the forearm down, and snap your wrist at the point of contact, which should be at the bottom-back of the ball. The paddle should be open at this point. When chopping, remember to graze the ball barely enough to return it over the net. Avoid extra impact that would take away the backspin or hit it too long. The follow-through should be long enough that the arm nearly straightens at the finish.

BACKHAND CHOP: Similar to the forehand chop, bring the paddle up and the wrist back while rotating the waist. Transfer weight to back foot. Snap the wrist and follow through all the way.

Notes on the chop: The point of contact will vary depending on the topspin present on the ball. The more topspin on a ball, the lower it should be taken during a chop. This means against a loop, one must bend his knees in order to get low enough to return the heavy topspin. Don't let this cause you to lose sight of the table. Also, the farther you are from the table, the harder you need to chop down on the ball. Be sure to relax and use a smooth stroke.

The Flip

The flip is one alternative to the push in taking short balls. By allowing one to return such balls faster, it can provide an element of surprise. The nature of the flip requires a special foot position for support. The right foot(for right-handers) goes several feet ahead of the body, which often means sliding it under the table. In case the table has a crossbar that prevents your leg from getting through, just remember to brace yourself for the sudden forward lunge and put the right foot as far ahead as possible. The flip is a wrist shot. There is no room for anything else, so make sure you strengthen the wrist as much as possible.

FOREHAND FLIP: Bend the wrist back. Slide the right foot forward, then with the racket open, move it under a dropping short ball. When the ball touches the paddle, immediately rotate your wrist and move the arm forward and up, grazing it. Follow through, then immediately return to the ready position.

BACKHAND FLIP: Bend the wrist back. With right foot forward, execute a mini-loop with extra wrist and follow through.

Notes on the flip: How open the racket is before contact depends upon the backspin content of the ball. The most backspin there is, the more open the racket should be. For faster flips, graze the ball at the top of the bounce with more forward motion. If the ball is high enough, flip-kill(flip with extreme speed) it.

The Lob

An exclusively defensive shot, the lob is almost always used to return a smash far away from the table. A good lob will land deep in the table, with plenty of topspin/sidespin. The trick to lobbing is consistency. The opponent, provided he/she is skilled enough, will relentlessly attempt to smash every lob that comes his/her way. Occasionally they will try something else, but the most common scenario is the lob/kill rally. A lob requires plenty of anticipation and footspeed on the part of the lobber. Without either of those, one could not possibly hope to play catch up with a 100mph ball(although they do slow down considerably with distance).

To execute a lob, first detect the opponent's movements: if he/she is well into a smash, move back fast! Get ready, and drop your paddle low, along with the shoulder. Move the weight to the back foot. Bend your knees a bit more. When the ball comes your way, watch it carefully and push off on your knees, while bringing the entire arm up in an upward swinging motion. Hit the ball of the drop, on the back-bottom surface. Follow through high, then get ready for the unexpected(another smash, smother kill, etc.)!

Notes on the lob: Hitting back a lob can be very difficult if one is not prepared. Make sure to modify any stroke so that it can hit an extremely high ball, not one that goes up 6 inches. Also use the entire body to introduce more force into the stroke, as you will be hitting a fast moving(and often spinning) ball in a perpendicular direction. To smother-kill a lob(for variety), the paddle should be very closed. Perform a smash right after the ball bounces. Timing is extremely important.

Advanced Service Techniques

Advanced service differ from the basic service in the following ways:

• The stroke is the same for all spins
• By controlling where you hit the ball on the paddle(tip, middle, near handle) you can control the rate of spin
• By controlling at which point in the stroke you hit the ball, the combination of spins is possible
• The toss is often higher to aid in speed, spin, and deception
• A variety of techniques, including high tosses and foot stamps, are used to prevent the opponent from anticipating the spin on the ball

There are two primary families of advanced serves: backhand sidespin, and forehand pendulum. Each uses a different side of the paddle, and both have variable points in the stroke that will produce one or more of the spins.

BACKHAND SIDESPIN SERVE: From the backhand side of the table, stand with the feet and shoulders 45 degrees to the left. This helps the body block some of the stroke from your opponent's view. Bend the wrist back. Bring the paddle, which is open, back and upward, while the ball is tossed from an open palm in front of the paddle. When the ball starts to drop, bring the paddle downward with your elbow in a semicircular motion sideways. At contact, snap the wrist. If you desire a sidespin serve with a little bit of backspin, graze the ball in the first third of your semicircular motion(downwards, right). For almost pure sidespin, contact the ball at the bottommost part of the swing. For topspin/sidespin serves, hit the ball at the last third, when the paddle is travelling upwards in the semicircle. This last spin may be the toughest to execute, but it can be done. Remember that topspin in these serves is not at all like the basic topspin serve, where the racket moved forward through the ball. The advanced topspin serve is more of a lob, or loop against backspin, where the paddle 'tugs' the ball upwards, causing spin. Thus it can still be executed with an open paddle. Follow through is the same regardless of the spin you chose, and this is important to complete the deceptive movement of the serve.

FOREHAND PENDULUM SERVE: The racket movement required in this serve cannot be achieved with the normal shakehands grip. The paddle is held almost entirely with the index finger and thumb. The other three fingers are curled against the handle. On one side, the index finger lies flat against the rubber, sticking towards the tip of the paddle. On the other, the thumb rests on the bottom part of the rubber(note: the thumbnail is not perpendicular this time to the blade. hold the rubber with the printed part of the thumb). Rotate the paddle back a bit more backwards in your new grip without bending the wrist-something that isn't possible with the shakehands grip. Now you can rotate the paddle in a semicircle with your wrist.

Stand in the forehand(or backhand) corner of the table, with your left shoulder and foot back so your body faces away from the table. This position helps hide the ball during contact. Place the ball in the flat of your hand close to your stomach, and with the new grip hold the paddle slightly behind the ball. Toss the ball about 1-2 feet into the air(more as you get better), and move the paddle back and up, with the hitting surface open. Use the elbow as a pivot point, and try to keep its movement to a minimum. the wrist back as far as possible. When the ball starts to drop, swing forward and down with the forearm, keeping the elbow in place. To hit a backspin/sidespin shot, graze the ball in the back-right region early in the swing, when the paddle is travelling down and left. For an almost pure sidespin shot, graze the ball at the bottom of the swing on the back of the ball. For topspin/sidespin, graze the back of the ball as you pull up on the racket. With this serve, the topspin portion can be especially tough when you consider the body is facing away from the table. For this reason it is vital to make sure that you perfect the grip for maximum wrist movement, and use the forearm and elbow only for the swing.

Advanced service notes: Be sure to shift your weight during the serves for maximum spin and speed. If speed is your goal, then there will be less spin. Speedy serves should hit your side of the table very close to your endline. That way the ball has the maximum distance available to travel in the air, and also land on the other side(preferable very close to his/her endline). Serving cross-court increases this distance. For increased spin or speed, make your toss higher. Incorporate exaggerated movements/follow-throughs to confuse your opponent. Everyone's serve is unique. If you have an unorthodox version and it shows promise, practice it. Practice a wide variety of angles, spins, and depths. After your service, remember to go into the ready position as fast as possible, and prepare for the return. If you use the special grip for the forehand pendulum, practice the transition from that grip to the shakehands(or insert your preferred grip here) grip. This goes double for speedy serves.

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